| West Coast Leopard Gecko.com |
| Professional Leopard Gecko Herpetoculture |
Captive Bred Leopard Gecko Breeders
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| Leopard Gecko care sheet |
| General Information The Leopard Gecko is a excellent choice for your very first reptile. It’s very low maintenance and does not need a lot of attention. This reptile originated from Pakistan, Afghanistan and India. These are arid regions and research has shown the leopard geckos dens have high humidity levels. For this reason we recommend having a moist hide box for shedding and egg laying. Housing Most Leopard gecko breeders use breeding racks to provide housing for their leopard geckos. If you choose to use a glass tank, we recommend enclosing all four sides with cardboard, then remove one of the four sides every week for a month. Never put your tank in direct sunlight and be sure to provide shelter and a few places to hide. This will simulate the rock crevices in the wild. Depending on what substrate you choose to use, we recommend not using calcium sand. Some leopard geckos can become impacted with calcium sand, and you can choose to use other types of substrate. Juveniles should not be housed in substrate until they are at least 5” long. Remember don't put two males in the same tank, because they will fight. Housing two or more females and a male together is acceptable. They have a high level of social tolerance but don't require company. Because leopard geckos are nocturnal they don't require any special lighting. Our breeding room has windows in it and it simulates natural day and night cycles. Acclamation Due to the stress of shipping and a new environment, we recommend minimizing the handling of your new pet. Provide fresh food and water and a moist hide box and or log. It’s not unusual for a new gecko to stop eating for a few days after arrival. In time your gecko will gain your trust and your new friend will come out when you feed and clean the cage. Environment All new arrivals should be quarantined for 30 - 60 days. We recommend that the humidity be from 50 - 70% and you can achieve this by providing a moist hide box. Temperatures should range from 75 - 85 degrees and you can use infrared heat lamps and heating pads with a thermostat. Remember to leave at least 1/3 of your tank cool, to allow your leopard gecko to cool down if needed. We keep our breeding racks and tanks between 80 and 85 degrees. Feeding We feed our geckos meal worms, crickets and wax worms as a treat. It’s important to gut load your meal worms and crickets with carrots, lettuce, cheerios and broccoli. We leave Osteo-Form for adults and Vionate for juveniles in the fed bowls at all times. We dust our crickets one to two times a week with Osteo-Form. Husbandry With proper husbandry you can expect your leopard gecko to live at least 10 to 20 years of age. We clean our cages daily to prevent disease and to improve overall wellness of our leopard geckos. For more information you can purchase books online and we highly recommend the book listed below. Best Regards, Gary & Julia ( the kids ) Alexander and Michael Email : gary@westcoastleopardgecko.com We recommend “The Herpetoculture of Leopard Geckos (Twenty- seven Generations of Living Art). |
| Geckos on the rocks and shed box. |
| 40 gallon tank with a shed box, rocks and cardboard on three sides. |
| Reptile breeding rack. |
| Vionate Powder |